Travel writing based on first-hand experience
Having visited Morocco four times, it was finally time for us to point our compass toward Essaouira—that salty, wind-brushed little Atlantic town on Morocco’s west coast that makes you slow down without even trying.
And honestly? We thought it was gorgeous. Whitewashed walls, sea air in your hair, and a food scene that hits completely different from the usual Moroccan tourist circuit. Essaouira does seafood like it’s a love language—grilled fish, fried calamari, prawns —so yes, we’re absolutely going to talk about it.
Here’s where to eat in Essaouira, including the spots we loved most and the restaurants we’d happily crawl back to for “just one more plate.”
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Where to eat in Essaouira
You’ve probably guessed it already, but with the Atlantic on one side and endless beach on the other, seafood runs the show in Essaouira—and it does it with flair. Octopus, prawns, whole grilled fish… they’re basically on every menu, in every style, at every price point. And the best part? The food scene is surprisingly varied and genuinely excellent.
But we can’t live on fish alone, so here’s our tried-and-happy roundup of where to eat in Essaouira—from slow riad breakfasts to sunset tea to “we need pizza and we need it now.”

Breakfasts at our riad
We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again: in Morocco, you stay in a riad. It’s not just accommodation—it’s part of the trip. More charm than a standard hotel, and usually built around a peaceful central courtyard with balconies, a handful of rooms, and that warm, personal feel that makes you instantly slow down.
And then there’s the main event: riad breakfasts. The kind that show up like a small festival of breads, jams, fresh juice, mint tea, and little dishes you didn’t know you needed in your life until that exact moment.
We stayed at Riad Dar Awil and, beyond the lovely room, the breakfasts were genuinely spectacular.
Just look at the presentation in the photo—plus, while you’re busy admiring it, they’re casually cooking a tagine with eggs on the stove for you. Best way to start the day. Absolute Morocco essential.

Fresh fish at the market or port
For lunch, we did what the locals told us to do (always a smart move) and tested two classic options: the port area, where after the fish auction they set up grills and cook your pick right there on the spot… and the Fish Market, where you choose your fish and then take it upstairs to one of the little kitchens with terrace seating to have it cooked for next to nothing.
We went for the market option and it was a total win: you can get a kilo of assorted fish for around 70 dirhams, then they grill it for you upstairs. Easy, delicious, and about as “Essaouira” as lunch gets. Highly recommended.

Salut Maroc
If you’re hunting for the one terrace you absolutely shouldn’t skip for sea views and a sunset that looks unfairly cinematic, make it Salut Maroc.
That said, this restaurant (with multiple floors and little corners to claim as your own) works at almost any hour. We didn’t sit down for a full meal, but we did have the most perfect mid-afternoon pause: Moroccan tea and pastries that tasted even better with the Atlantic stretched out in front of us.

And if it’s cold and windy like it was for us? Even better. You’ll be very happy tucked by a window table with a crackling fire, watching the sea misbehave outside. Tell us that isn’t the dream.
La Coupole Essaouira Beach
La Coupole Essaouira Beach is just steps from the sea, with a rooftop terrace serving up big, endless coastline views and those silhouettes of the fortified medina that make you want to take 47 photos and pretend you’re in a movie. The menu is modern but still grounded in Moroccan classics, with plenty of seafood (as it should be).

Sisterhood Concept Store
Sisterhood Coffee & Shop is the kind of place you “just pop into” and then suddenly it’s an hour later and you’re holding a cappuccino, eyeing a vintage jacket, and wondering if you should move to Essaouira and start a new life. It’s an alternative little space with a second-hand shop, rooms for events, and a café where the carrot cake is dangerously convincing.
The decor totally fits the concept—eclectic vintage pieces we can’t resist, plus a sweet little collection of dishes that belonged to her parents. It’s perfect for that mid-afternoon reset when your feet are done with the medina but your curiosity isn’t.

The LOFT
Without a doubt, The Loft is our favorite place to eat in Essaouira. We first spotted it recommended in a guidebook, but what sealed it was the endorsement from the guy at our riad, who was basically on a mission to save us from tourist traps.
They don’t take reservations—it’s first come, first served—so go early if you can. And if you get the chance, grab the little table on the upper balcony: it’s fun watching the dishes travel through the space from up there. The decor is cozy with a slightly retro feel, and the food is genuinely excellent. The star is grilled octopus, but the saffron prawns? Also a serious contender.
Our waiter was lovely, and we’d go back in a heartbeat because there were still way too many tempting things left on the menu. Which, according to Alberto’s personal logic, is the highest compliment a restaurant can get.

Taberna Bolognese Da Maurizio
On our first night in Essaouira, we arrived from Marrakech absolutely wrecked. And since it was Friday, we ordered proper Italian pizza from a guy from Bologna named Maurizio who runs this little tavern.
Taberna Bolognese Da Maurizio is charmingly Italian—red-and-white checkered tablecloths and all—but we took it back to our room (which had a sweet little terrace) and it hit the spot exactly when we needed it. A perfect option for eating in Essaouira when you’re craving pizza instead of yet another octopus moment.

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